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![]() Complex Wraps Demand Advanced Techniques, Part I
By Jennifer LeClaire
Before you print your vinyl, be sure to review film and surface preparation recommendations in light of the unique demands of complex wraps. You’ll be glad you did.
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Vehicle wraps are nothing new. We’ve learned how to avoid bubbles and even how to approach corrugation. But don’t get too high and mighty. Wraps are getting more complex and customer expectations are increasing. What was acceptable five years ago with retail customers (a few wrinkles and a slight misalignment of the graphics) won’t fly today with corporate customers not if you want the high-paying jobs. If you want to wrap with the big dogs, you need to learn how to handle the complex contours of automobiles, vans and buses. It all begins with the proper film selection and surface preparation, and it continues with unique film application techniques suited for complex contours. While you’re at it, you may as well learn how to remove those vinyl graphics from your challenging contours, too. In part one of this two-part series, we’ll look at film selection and surface preparation with a special focus on the needs of complex wraps.
Selecting the Right Film “Vinyl film has a memory for its original shape,” he explains. “Stretching the film can result in some shrinkage as it attempts to return to its original dimensions. As it shrinks, you can expect some lifting and tenting of the graphic in stretched areas.” Stavreff’s best advice: carefully read your product bulletin for the film you are considering. As you do, look for specs that will help you determine the film’s suitability for contours and complex curved surfaces. Generally speaking, you may be able to get away with 4-mil films on flat areas and vehicles. But you’ll need to stick with 2-mil cast films for applications that involve complex surfaces. One of the key differences between calendered films and cast films is that cast films are manufactured with very little inherent stress in the materials. That translates as much less shrinkage.
Common Film Selection Mistakes On the other end of the spectrum are low-tack “changeable” products. These products may not require a professional installer to perform the graphic removal on the back end. But if you decide to use these low-tack products, then proceed with caution: it becomes even more critical that you use a 2-mil cast film. Otherwise, you may wind up with excessive shrinkage. The graphic could even lift from the surface of the vehicle. In that case, all of your hard work goes down the drain and you have a very unhappy customer. Printing can also affect the properties of a graphic. If solvent inks are not dried well, the vinyl and the adhesive will absorb the solvent, causing two problems, according to Stavreff. Although the adhesive may feel “stickier,” solvent in the adhesive will ultimately cause a drop in adhesion. What’s more, while solvent in the film makes the graphic softer and easier to form around the vehicle, Stavreff said the solvent will eventually evaporate out of the film, and the graphic may shrink. Again, that’s not good if you want repeat business. “Another consideration, of course, is the use of application features built into the adhesive. The ability to reposition graphics during installation has become more important as the scale and complexity of wraps has increased,” Stavreff notes. “If you are unable to position and then reposition the graphic as necessary prior to full adhesion, there’s a greater chance of ruining the graphic and having to reprint it. In addition, some films provide air release channels in the adhesive that eliminate application bubbles and can help reduce installation costs.”
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The Importance of Surface Preparation “The biggest mistake is not prepping the surface,” says Jeff Stadelman, technical marketing manager for MACtac, a manufacturer of pressure sensitive adhesive products. “It’s so important to have a clean surface to put the adhesives down on. That’s definitely the number one error.” From dirt to grease to mud to various other contaminants, vehicles tend to need at least one thorough cleaning before tackling any kind of wrap. That becomes even more critical when grease and grime is trapped in complex contours and curves that need to be covered with vinyl. If you don’t prepare your surface, simply put, your vinyl probably won’t stick, or at least it won’t stay stuck for long. “People often want to skip the most basic step,” says Nathan Franzblau, founder of the Professional Decal Application Association, an association of independent certified vinyl installation companies. “If it is a trailer, then some people don’t want to take the time to clean it. If it is raining, then some people don’t want to take the time to dry off the raindrops. But that is a mistake. The materials are designed to work, but they are designed to work under the correct specifications.”
How to Prepare the Surface Domestic paper towels are often the best means of wiping down the surface because even clean shop rags can accumulate contaminates like wetting solutions or cleaning products. Moreover, it is best to use standard paper towels not super absorbent or those with absorption pockets because they may also carry contaminants that will get left behind on the surface. Also remember that most film manufacturers have vehicle surface temperature recommendations. 3M, for example, cautions against installation of its films below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Ambient air temperature should be between 60 degrees and 90 degrees. If the temperature is too cool, move the vehicle indoors to bring its surface temperature up to the minimum. 3M’s Stavreff warns to be aware that if the vinyl is below the recommended application temperature, the following problems could arise.
If the temperature is too warm, another set of problems can occur:
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